Showing posts with label #bigfatmoroccanwedding. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #bigfatmoroccanwedding. Show all posts

Thursday, October 22, 2015

Day 186, Part 2: The Moroccan Wedding in Fes

What do you wear to a Moroccan wedding? You wear the traditional, simple, but nice Moroccan dresses that the girl you met on the train, Nadia's, family gives you to wear, and then insists that you keep! I have heard that in traditional Muslim houses that guests are like god. Today, I felt like a real Muslim guest.

This wedding was my first non-Christian wedding. It was completely different to what I know. The wedding was held in Nadia's house. The men and women were kept separately. Additionally, apparently there are two wedding receptions: one on one day for the bride's family and one on another day for the groom's family.

Unlike our wedding receptions where we eat first, listen to Frank Sinatra, do our Dad/Daughter dance, and then break open the dance floor, in a Moroccan wedding, the first thing you do immediately do to start dancing. The Arabic music came on, the hips started moving, the shoulders started shaking, and the hands started floating.

Then, just when you needed a breather from the dancing, the bride and groom make their 1st grand entrance. That's right. They don't make just one entrance. They don't make two entrances. No. They make five entrances! Each entrance requires a different ensemble.

The reason? Nobody could actually tell us at the wedding. Neither could Wikipedia. For now, it'll have to remain a mystery.

Entrance One:
The bride wore a white Moroccan dress and the groom wore a traditional Moroccan robe. They made their entry. However, the bride didn't enter the room on her own feet. No, she was lead to a chair on the ground, where the groom's friends, in traditional Berber robes, lifted her on a palate and danced her into the room. and then they sat on this stage-come-throne that was made for them in front of all of the guests.

After they sat, this master of ceremonies and the bride's attendants (all hired people to help make sure everything goes well), made sure everything was settled. Then the bride and groom had what appeared to be the marriage ceremony. First, they held a bowl of cow's milk with rose water for each other to drink. Next, they passed the bowl around for the guests to drink. We researched this tradition and we believe its meant to symbolize purity. Then, the couple then fed each some sort of stuffed date, and then dates were handed out for the guests to eat. Finally, there was an exchange of rings. Obviously the couple then posed for pictures,

Then the groom just left. We couldn't figure out if he'd had enough of the women-only party or what. We waited and the bride just sat there on her throne. Finally, after 10-15 minutes, the groom returned bearing gifts which he presented. He gave flowers, clothes, and carried in gifts of henna, sugar, dates, etc. in large silver tagine-shaped platters. Okay, bounty given, the guests could then pose with the bride and groom. Finally, the bride and groom left.

Interlude One:

The music came back on and people continued dancing. Now, these weren't just young people dancing. Oh no! Those older women tied their scarves around their waists and started shaking their hips just as much as the younger women. I've never seen older women dance like this! They only sat when delicious cookies and juice started to be served. This is only the 2nd dry wedding I've ever attended, and I cannot imagine how much more these people would dance if they had alcohol!

Entrance Two:
The bride and groom entered wearing costume #2 - this time, the groom wore a suit/tie and the bride wore a green, velvety Moroccan dress. Again, they sat, posed, people took pictures with them, and then dancing continued.

Entrance Three:
The couple left, came back with costume #3, the groom wore the same ensemble, and the bride wore a velvety red Moroccan dress. I  must say, this was probably the most boring of the costumes. It felt a bit like they were an exhibit at a festival. You could pick with what costume you wanted your picture with the bride and groom. Do you think the green dress would flatter what you're wearing more? Okay, wait for that dress before you climb up onto the stage alongside them and get your picture taken.

I must also confess that I did start to wonder where the heck the food was? I mean, sure, they were giving us lots of cookies and sweets, but I'm more of a 'cookie and sweets for dessert', not a 'cookie and sweets for appetizers' kind of person. Plus, all of that dancing was making me really hot, sweaty, and hungry! There isn't even alcohol to give me courage - I have to go 'au natural' with my dancing. That can't be good for anybody.

Entrance Four:

Costume #4 was intense. The groom wore a traditional Moroccan costume, complete with the red hat. The bride wore this intense white dress with huge head gear. It was like Moroccan Cleopatra with a giant breast plate. Pallavi thought she looked a bit like the Hindu goddess Kali, which is intimidating, scary, and beautiful. To add to the intensity, this time they were both put onto their palates and both lifted up into the air. They only looked afraid of being dropped or hitting their heads on the chandeliers a few times.

Again, dancing interlude. By this time, we were well into Arabic pop music.

Entrance Five:

Finally, costume #5 came. The bride wore what Christians would call a traditional wedding dress and the groom wore a tux. They posed for one last photo session before they waved to the crowd, did their version of a Sound of Music 'So Long, Farewell,' and left! Apparently they go downstairs, where they eat dinner by themselves, before the family sends them off in a more private goodbye.

In the meantime, we all finally got to eat!! Food was served on a central platter and each guest was given a plate, cutlery, and a piece of bread. You could put the food on your plate, but everybody just grabbed a piece of bread and tore the meat off of the chicken on the central platter and ate it directly. Who needs the middle man of a plate?! If you waste time with the plate, you'll miss all of the food! You could tell how hungry people were based on the amount of bones that ended up scattered on the table! However, we didn't plan our eating strategy properly. There wasn't just one dish! Rookie mistake. Of course there were 2 dishes plus a fruit dessert platter.

We left completely stuffed to the gills, filled with amazement and hospitality, and with great memories and friends we'll never forget. What a great experience that just fell into our lap. Moral of the story: be friendlier to the people who sit next to you on the train! They might just invite you to a wedding.

[To probably be edited later when I figure out a funnier way to tell this story]

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Day 185: Attending a Henna Ceremony in Fes

Fes is an interesting city in that it has a really elaborate medina; however, to be honest, if you know what main square you are headed to, and just follow the signs, it's actually quite easy. The medina has much more of a Prince of Persia medieval feel to it. You are constantly walking through narrow lanes, watching for donkey trains laden with bricks or people with wheelbarrows, crossing underneath clay ramparts. It looks really cool compared to the other medinas we have explored. The people in Fes, though, are a bit crude. We have had more men catcalling and saying inappropriate things to us in this city than we have in any other throughout our travels - and this was while we were wearing jeans and a nice long sleeve top (our backpacker chic).

We've also discovered that people in Morocco love India. Pallavi is experiencing the same kind of celebrity that she did in Indonesia. No sooner do people see Pallavi and learn that she's from India then they reply with "Shah Rukh Khan!" Or, my personal favorite, they then just call after her as she passes them on the street, "Hey India!" I never realized how big Bollywood actually is as an international enterprise until now. A few months ago, Pallavi had cued me in that for collective cultures, Bollywood is more relatable, especially when it comes to inter-family relationships.

Speaking of families, today wasn't about exploring Fes and the medina. Today was about attending Nadia's cousin's wedding eve henna ceremony. We had been invited and went to her house to celebrate. In Morocco, the night before the wedding, the women get together and they hire somebody to put elaborate henna on the bride and then more simple henna on the other women. The bride puts on this velvety green dress, with lots of jewelry, and a crown, and walks into the main room behind two unwed girls who carry two large candles. There is also another family member who carries a tray laden with a bowl with two eggs and incense, a silver rose-water container, and some green velvety thing that looks like a Moroccan top-hat (but isn't) that holds sugar. The bride then sits on this throne of pillows that the family creates for her and the family starts the sing. The family sings the entire time that the henna is being applied to the bride's hands and feet.

This family is so incredibly welcoming. They put henna on both of us as well. I've never had henna put. I've never even seen it put! Usually, there are women trying to sell you henna in the square, so I try to avoid any eye contact or curious glances to avoid their attention and sales pitches. It is pretty cool. This girl who applied it really had great talent. Pallavi says that they apply it differently here than they do in India. It is much thinner here, which allows them to make the design more elaborate. They just put henna on the first digit of all fingers on my left hand, then a vine down from my index finger to just past my wrist. I must say that it suits me!

The family also let us play their instruments and got us up to dance with the crowd. It was full of fun. In fact, it was so much fun that we have shifted our plans to move from Fes by a day so that we can attend the wedding! What does one wear to a Moroccan wedding? We already wore our backpacker chic. Guess shopping for wedding clothes is one way to get a Moroccan souvenir.