Pallavi and I decided to forego the Vinh Moc tunnels near the DMZ in lieu of the Cu Chi Tunnels. The Cu Chi Tunnels consist of 250 km of hand-dug tunnels about 45 kms outside of Ho Chi Minh City. You have to tip your hat off to the Vietnamese and also to the American soldiers who had to enter this area.
The Cu Chi tunnels aren't just long, but they are complex! They are made of 3 different layers (3 metres, 6 metres, and 10 metres deep). Each layer not only has a variety of tunnels and rooms of different sizes for different purposes, but each layer is also laced with booby traps. Actually, the whole surface of the jungle above the tunnels and the tunnels were covered in booby traps. The booby traps were converted animal traps, most of which involved some sort of spike and hidden floorboards that could kill you in a bazillion different ways. Plus, if the booby traps weren't enough, the Vietkong also used the Americans' un-exploded missiles to turn into weapons to use against the Americans. Talk about reduce, reuse, and recycle. Geez!
Alright, back to the tunnels. The basic necessities of the tunnels also their own unique form of camouflage. The air vent was disguised as an ant hill. The kitchen only operated in the morning so that the smoke from the fire would blend in with the morning mist. The tunnels even had entrances from the river that required swimming. That is just the stuff we saw. That doesn't include the stuff we experienced.
We went to the less-visited tunnel entrance, Ben Duoc. It conveniently is accessible by public transportation, but not many people take that route. We maybe had a group of 11 by the time all of the stragglers had congregated to watch our 15 minute mandatory propaganda video and then joined our guide for the tour. Our guide started us walking us towards the entrance of the tunnels, pointing out the fake ant hill, etc. We entered one area of the tunnels to see their underground well. That seemed pretty cool and easy enough. It was just a bit of a duck down underground into a big room. Simple.
Then we stop. I could see that there was an area of raised land with three opening under it. Clearly a lookout point for the tunnels that has been cleared away for the tourists. The guide tells us about the lookout point and asks if we want to see it. Well sure! He then shifts his feet. It wasn't until he bent over to clear off the dirt that we realized he was opening up the entrance into the tunnels. Seriously. With all of the visitors that they get, and the frequency that they open this entrance, the ground didn't even look worn enough to signal that something might be amiss with it! He opens up this metal rectangular hole in the ground that must be 6 inches by 12 inches wide. He then says, if you want to go in, then go! We all looked at each other and the skinniest tiniest girls decided to go first. Alright, well, that's a given. Just another win for the skinny girls. However, then people started going in increasing order of size, even Pallavi! While I was waiting for Pallavi, the 6'3" Dutch guys entered the tunnel. Well, if they can do it, I can do it too! It was crazy how you can fit into that small little hole.
That wasn't even the toughest tunnel though. We went through a shorter one that required that you walk maybe 10 meters at the second level down in a constant crouch. (Oh, and watch the bat on the ceiling of the 3.5 foot tall enclosure.) We were absolutely in a full sweat at this point. We thought it'd be cooler under ground. However, even that wasn't the toughest tunnel.
The guide then asked if we wanted to go to the lowest level and for a longer 30 meter walk. Feeling brave, we all said, yeah! We started walking and the group decided to try it without any light. Holy crap! This tunnel must have been maybe 3 feet tall by 1.5 feet wide (I'm sure they widened it for the tourists at some places). It was absolutely pitch black. I don't know how any of us didn't bump into any other person. Then, it was so small (even with the widened parts). Pallavi chose to crawl on her knees at some places. I managed to duck waddle my way with my butt basically an inch off of the ground the whole way. Finally, then there was the change in levels! Declines while at a waddle in the dark = whole new level of difficulty.
When we came out of it, we were treated to some running water to wash our hands, some root potatoes and tea that the guerrillas would have made, and quite some stories to tell. Again, I realized that I am not made for warfare in the Pacific. I also realized exactly how horrible it would have been for Americans here. How could they have seen the booby traps and the tunnel entrances. Plus, there clearly was a well mapped long tunnel network lying below them. If you even got one bit, there were still so many other bits to go.
It was an experience we don't think we'll ever forget. Now, passport collected, it's time for Cambodia.
The Cu Chi tunnels aren't just long, but they are complex! They are made of 3 different layers (3 metres, 6 metres, and 10 metres deep). Each layer not only has a variety of tunnels and rooms of different sizes for different purposes, but each layer is also laced with booby traps. Actually, the whole surface of the jungle above the tunnels and the tunnels were covered in booby traps. The booby traps were converted animal traps, most of which involved some sort of spike and hidden floorboards that could kill you in a bazillion different ways. Plus, if the booby traps weren't enough, the Vietkong also used the Americans' un-exploded missiles to turn into weapons to use against the Americans. Talk about reduce, reuse, and recycle. Geez!
Alright, back to the tunnels. The basic necessities of the tunnels also their own unique form of camouflage. The air vent was disguised as an ant hill. The kitchen only operated in the morning so that the smoke from the fire would blend in with the morning mist. The tunnels even had entrances from the river that required swimming. That is just the stuff we saw. That doesn't include the stuff we experienced.
We went to the less-visited tunnel entrance, Ben Duoc. It conveniently is accessible by public transportation, but not many people take that route. We maybe had a group of 11 by the time all of the stragglers had congregated to watch our 15 minute mandatory propaganda video and then joined our guide for the tour. Our guide started us walking us towards the entrance of the tunnels, pointing out the fake ant hill, etc. We entered one area of the tunnels to see their underground well. That seemed pretty cool and easy enough. It was just a bit of a duck down underground into a big room. Simple.
Then we stop. I could see that there was an area of raised land with three opening under it. Clearly a lookout point for the tunnels that has been cleared away for the tourists. The guide tells us about the lookout point and asks if we want to see it. Well sure! He then shifts his feet. It wasn't until he bent over to clear off the dirt that we realized he was opening up the entrance into the tunnels. Seriously. With all of the visitors that they get, and the frequency that they open this entrance, the ground didn't even look worn enough to signal that something might be amiss with it! He opens up this metal rectangular hole in the ground that must be 6 inches by 12 inches wide. He then says, if you want to go in, then go! We all looked at each other and the skinniest tiniest girls decided to go first. Alright, well, that's a given. Just another win for the skinny girls. However, then people started going in increasing order of size, even Pallavi! While I was waiting for Pallavi, the 6'3" Dutch guys entered the tunnel. Well, if they can do it, I can do it too! It was crazy how you can fit into that small little hole.
That wasn't even the toughest tunnel though. We went through a shorter one that required that you walk maybe 10 meters at the second level down in a constant crouch. (Oh, and watch the bat on the ceiling of the 3.5 foot tall enclosure.) We were absolutely in a full sweat at this point. We thought it'd be cooler under ground. However, even that wasn't the toughest tunnel.
The guide then asked if we wanted to go to the lowest level and for a longer 30 meter walk. Feeling brave, we all said, yeah! We started walking and the group decided to try it without any light. Holy crap! This tunnel must have been maybe 3 feet tall by 1.5 feet wide (I'm sure they widened it for the tourists at some places). It was absolutely pitch black. I don't know how any of us didn't bump into any other person. Then, it was so small (even with the widened parts). Pallavi chose to crawl on her knees at some places. I managed to duck waddle my way with my butt basically an inch off of the ground the whole way. Finally, then there was the change in levels! Declines while at a waddle in the dark = whole new level of difficulty.
When we came out of it, we were treated to some running water to wash our hands, some root potatoes and tea that the guerrillas would have made, and quite some stories to tell. Again, I realized that I am not made for warfare in the Pacific. I also realized exactly how horrible it would have been for Americans here. How could they have seen the booby traps and the tunnel entrances. Plus, there clearly was a well mapped long tunnel network lying below them. If you even got one bit, there were still so many other bits to go.
It was an experience we don't think we'll ever forget. Now, passport collected, it's time for Cambodia.
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