Day 16: Trek to Kelimutu

The locals wanted 50,000 Rupiah to take us the 13.5 kms to the top of the volcano Kelimutu. We decided walking was free. We set off on foot to see how we go and nobody stopped us. What awaits us at the top of this mountain? There are 3 separate volcanic craters, separated only by a thin rock wall, that erupted years ago and have since filled with water. The water in each crater is a different colour and the colour changes depending upon the time of year. One crater is redblack, another crater is sky blue/white, and the final crater is green. Oh, and at least one of them is an active geyser as well! These craters are why we have borne a really long public bus ride, multiple car rides, and now, a trek 16.5 kms to the top.

But travel is all about the journey, not the destination, right?

Transport 1: We barely have hiked 3 kms when we thumb down a passing vehicle, and jump into the back for 2 kms. We get off and resume our trek.

Transport 2: Now the Canadian and I are in some sort of shape. Pallavi & Vikki are both struggling just a little bit, but they are resourceful! They hear a vehicle coming about 40 minutes into the trip and thumb it down. It’s a passenger bus filled with women, but it doesn’t have room in the bus. However, the women all start pointing to the roof. We point to the roof too, and next thing we know, we are on top of the bus! It. Was. Awesome! The driver definitely was driving slower around all of the curves to ensure our safety, and after about 3 minutes of potential, initial panic, it was on! We were so sad when we finally had to come down and resume our walk.

Transport 3: Again we start walking. I am thinking and cursing whoever’s bright idea this was. No environmental wonder could possibly be worth this hike! I clearly am an indoor child. Thank God Pallavi & Vikki are both out of shape, as they thumb down another passing vehicle. What is it this time? A police/military transport vehicle filled with officers who are all happy to pick up 4 ladies. So happy that when we reached the entrance to volcano, they stopped to take pictures with all of us (and some more than others, ahem, Pallavi)

Transport 4: Apparently, the 16.5 kms we had been promised was just to the gate. The park officials told us there were still another 5-6 kms to go. Now, really exhausted, we continue trekking and trekking and trekking and this isn’t 5 kms! We’ve definitely gone farther. Trekking, trekking, hear the sound of a motorcycle, see Vikki & Pallavi on the back of a motorcycle leaving the Canadian and I behind! Trekking, cursing at Vikki & Pallavi, trekking, trekking, trekking, FINALLY the motorcycle has come back for us and takes us at least another 3 kms to the top. Where apparently we still have another 1 km to hike. 

By the time we got to the top and explored, we wanted to spend as much time with the craters as we could. Lots of time! Lots of pictures. The white crater was emitting smoke from its geysers and creating a mystical sense about the place. In local traditional, these craters were where dead spirits came for their final resting place. Which crater they moved landed in depended upon their age & life. We were entranced to the extent that we didn’t leave the top of the mountain after feeling the first rain drops. No, we started running down all 1 kms of steps once it started pouring! Thankfully we reached this shelter, along with some creepy overly friendly park ranger and our motorcyclists, where we spent another 30-45 minutes freezing and drying off. The sun finally came out and Vikki & Lyndsay wanted to go back up to the top and get profile pictures. We opted not to climb, and again 10 minutes later, it poured again – this time for 2 hours! By the time we finally were able to make it to the café, that we more than happy to pay the two motorcyclists a small amount to take us back to Moni, just so we wouldn’t risk getting stuck in the rain again!

That night, we found a local place and just chilled as the owner played a guitar, sang familiar songs, and had a fellow join him on the bongos. It was pretty amazing.